New project: wedding bolero prototype

Yes, a new sewing project! Wow it's been a long time. I suppose I've had less reason to sew recently but with the wedding planning getting going again I was inspired to start something new.

It's quite exciting actually. I've chosen my wedding dress, I can't show you because it's a surprise, but it's very cool. I did originally think that I might make my own dress, but I'm glad I changed my mind. It's much less stressful to know I can leave that up to someone else.

I do want to make some things though. It seems silly not to use my skills and also it adds a more personal element, knowing you've put work into creating something. Since we are getting married in October I thought a jacket might be in order in case it's chilly. You never know with the weather in this country, it might be a bright autumn day or a dark winter one.

So here it is - a prototype for a wedding bolero/shrug type thing. I started off with New Look pattern 6507. I changed the shape of the front quite a lot and made it shorter. I also thought about maybe making the top of the sleeves a bit puffier? I've been very good and transferred my changes back to my paper pattern for when I make the real thing.

The final one will probably be a different colour so I'll need to find some more lace or create a ruffle for the edge. It's a shame really as that one works nicely!

What do you think?

New project: Camera bag

I've been carrying my camera about in a really boring protective case which takes up half the space in my bag.

Seemed like a good time to start work on a camera bag. It's going to be shaped like a messenger bag, with added padding. Hopefully I'll be able to carry my digital camera and one or two of my film cameras and still have space for other essentials like my phone and wallet.

I'm using a thick grey fabric on the outside which doesn't draw too much attention - then on the inside I'm going to use a pretty printed cotton.

It's only pinned together at the moment. I've still got to decide what kind of fastening it should have before I really get on with it.

The secret ruffler foot

Something strange happened today. My parents popped in to visit me and brought a package (addressed to me) which they had found in their garage. It was a bit grim - all dusty and the numbers had totally faded from the postage label. However it was well wrapped in a jiffy bag and when I looked inside, it contained a brand new ruffler foot for my sewing machine.

I must have sent for it over two years ago. There's no packing slip but I think it's a cheapy generic one that I ordered from ebay. Obviously I either forgot or wasn't that bothered when it didn't arrive!

I've tried a ruffler foot since then and it's never worked, in fact I thought they were a total waste of time. But the one I got today has changed my mind. Check this out. It's in perfect condition and worked a treat.



Wow. It even worked on the 'every stitch' setting which constantly jammed my machine with my other one. And it's so fast and so neat and even.

Ruffles just got a whole lot easier.

Making a rectangle skirt

This skirt is easier than a circle skirt and can be made without a zip. It has about half as much flare to it and gathering at the waist band which while it can be less flattering gives a more cupcake-y shape.

The main thing to remember when making this skirt is that the waist band will have to fit over you hips.

You will need: 2 1/2 - 3 metres of fabric (the hem of the skirt should be around 3 times you waist measurement) some elastic about an inch wide - enough to stretch around your hips.

Measure out a piece of fabric about -3x your waist- long and as wide as the length of your desired skirt plus a couple of inches for seams. Either by hand or with a loose machine stitch - sew a line across the top of the fabric for gathering (don't tie it off).

Measure you hips. The casing for your waist band should be this measurement plus about 5 inches in length and 5 inches in width. It is a good idea to use a little interfacing to make this part a bit thicker (don't worry about this if you are new to sewing). Fold the piece in half lengthways and iron it. Then unfold and fold in the edges half and inch each and iron these.

Next gather up the main fabric so that it is the same length as your waist band. With the right sides together - sew the gathered edge onto the waist band at the first ironed line.

Fold the band back up.

Then we need to sew up the back of the skirt. With the right sides together - sew up the back of the skirt up to the second ironed line of the waist band.

Fold the band over the top of the raw edges of the skirt. Now very carefully sew through all the layers of the waist band about 3mm from the bottom. You have now created a casing for the elastic - see how there is a little hole where we didn't sew up to the top?

Next is the elastic. Measure a piece of elastic that will stretch over your hips but fit un-stretched or just a little stretched around your waist. You can test this by putting it around you waist and securing it with a large safety pin. Try removing it over your hips. Cut it with a little overlap so we can join it together.

Attach the safety pin or a large paper clip to the end of your elastic and thread it through the waistband. The band with start to gather to the size of your waist. Securely sew the two ends togther when they meet and poke inside the waistband. Hand stitch the gap using a tiny slip stich.

All that remains is to hem the bottom and its done!

Making a cicle skirt

This skirt has a lot of flare. As its name suggests it can be spread out to form a full circle.
This can sometimes be too much flare for the lolita 'shape'. Some people think that it's not really suitable for lolita at all, so maybe try the rectangle skirt if you want less flare or if you are looking for a more traditional lolita style.

First things first, you will need:
Fabric - best to start with something light and inexpensive like a polycotton.
A zip - probably around 6 or 7 inches long.
A tape measure.
A compass - you might want to make one with ribbon or string.

You need a couple of measurements -
1. around your waist - comfortably.
2. the length of your skirt - from your waist to just above the knee.

Then a little maths - Add about 1 inch (3cm) to your waist measurement then divide by 3.14 (thats pi if you are interested), then divide by 2. Write down this number.

for example: say your waist was 100cm
100+3=103 103/3.14=32.8 32.8/2= 16.4

Take your fabric fold it in half width ways then length ways. From the corner that is all folded use your compass (or a piece of string with a pin in one end and your chalk at the other) to mark out a quarter of a circle - the radius of which is the number you got from your waist measurement.

It won't work if you just divide your waist measurement by four!

Then add your magic number to the length you want your skirt to be. For example: 16.4+50=66.4.

Starting in the top corner again, mark another quarter circle - this is the bottom of your skirt.
Carefully cut long these lines - through all the layers of fabric. You will also need to cut along the width ways fold line creating two semi-circular pieces.

If you don't create these seams - you won't be able to get into your skirt!

Next you need to sew these pieces back together including a zip on one side and hem all around the bottom to finish off the raw edges. The skirt will also need a waistband - you can make this by sewing a wide piece of ribbon over the top edge or cutting a straight piece of fabric and folding it over.

When you try on your skirt you may find that the hem is a little uneven. This can be for several reasons -

1. some parts of us stick out more than others - meaning the more fabric is used.
2. fabric can stretch when its grain is diagonal (on the bias).
You might need someone else to mark the hem line for you whilst you model the skirt.

3. circle skirts are a bit funny like that and you really need to have a tiny hem to go round the curves.

A basic skirt

One of the staples of the Lolita wardrobe is an above-the-knee length skirt with petticoats.

The first image is from Mary Magdalene and the second is from Moi Meme Moitie (Mana's brand). I think both of these are gorgeous.

You can make a simple skirt using a circle skirt pattern, or easily create one with your own measurements. It takes a little bit of maths but its not too hard.

You do need to remember that because its such a full skirt it will need quite a lot of fabric and trimmings. The skirt pictured has a 5 metre hemline - which means it needs 5 metres of lace to go round the bottom.

Patterns 3

You could of course draft your own patterns from scratch. Some colleges have courses on this sort of thing. I haven't found one that I could get to yet. I do have a very useful book that has basic blocks in it. Its called Metric Pattern Cutting.

I am still learning about this kind of technique, its the way professional fashion designers work. More on this in the future hopefully.

Lolita blouse pattern

This shirt pattern is an example of a really good starting point. Its a commercial pattern from New Look (number 5368).

It has some really nice lolita-esque elements like the puffy sleeves and ruffles. Here is a excellent reason for checking the diagrams - it also has a lovely lace-up back! I decided to make this in a basic black cotton with pre-gathered lace for the ruffles.

I think the back is nicer than the front. Minimal modifications were required: The front panels needed to be extended so that the shirt buttons right up to the top. I used some lace to add some frills but I think in hindsight some gathered fabric would have looked better.
All in this was a good start and cost very little, the plain black polycotton was less than £2 a meter.

Patterns 1 - Gosu Rori ゴスロリ

The main problem with this kind of sewing is that there aren't really any patterns available.

There is a magazine called Gosu Rori
ゴスロリ which does include patterns, but it is in Japanese and although people say it is not to bad... I find it very difficult to follow. If you do want to try this, I suggest this website. The section called 'Understanding the Patterns in Gosurori' is a very helpful pdf with translations of many of the key words.

I'm not entirely sure how the magazine works. It looks like people send in their drawings/ideas/designs and then someone at/for the magazine makes them into usable patterns.

There is one other problem I've experienced using these patterns. Quite often some of the pieces are not printed out and need to be drafted. I've never really had any dressmaking training and I find this difficult to do especially if the size needs changing too.

Sewing time

Looks like its time to start sewing. I am not interested in making 'knock offs' of branded goods. I want to make some Lolita inspired pieces that are individual, fit me and don't cost a fortune.

I like to sew. I have a sewing machine. I think these are the basic requirements to Gothic & Lolita sewing. Having access to a sewing machine is pretty mandatory - doing this kind of work by hand would take forever! I don't think you have to be a great seamstress to have a go either, as long as you take into account your skill level when planning your project. If you have never done any sewing before - its best to learn some basics rather than jumping in at the deep end.

Gothic Lolita wardrobe expansion

This is where it starts to get interesting (and also more to do with sewing). Once you have done some research and started collecting some pictures of the various themes/brands/looks.
You will probably find the book/magazine (mook) called Gothic & Lolita Bible, its not available very easily, but its also not impossible to obtain. It is in Japanese, but the main point is the images anyway. You can get them from ebay, or at conventions if you can't find them anywhere else.
Also Tokyopop are rumoured to be bringing out an english language version.

Some people have scanned pages and posted them on their sites - I think this is probably against copyright rules, but they are there if you want to have a look.

One of the main reasons I got into this kind of sewing is dresses like this one from Mary Madelene. You can buy these beautiful items but it might only available in Japan, at one store, in limited numbers, it might already have sold out two months ago, and it probably costs thousands of yen and only comes in one size - Japanese-teenage-girl.

Gothic Lolita Brands

As with most fashions, the sub-catergories of Gothic & Lolita have associated brands. I don't want to suggest that it's 'right' or 'wrong' to wear certain things; but I think it is worthwhile understanding the different aesthetics so you can decide which bits you want to use for your inspiration.

Some of the Lolita brands are more well known than others such as Baby the Stars Shine Bright and Angelic Pretty

Check out my 'Shopping' list or visit AvantGauche where there is an extended list of brands.